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Chantelle Anonuevo, a fashion student at the University of Falmouth, focused her graduate collection on 'the migration of her ancestors' as they ventured into what is now the Philippine peninsula. But today also marks her graduation! And being the first to be featured on Malyari Tribe, we thought we'd share what we learnt about her story and collection in celebration!
photo courtesy by Chantelle Anonuevo
Chantelle's Odyssey
Well, the word is of Greek origin meaning an 'epic' journey. But how does one translate such a journey into fashion? Well we questioned the exact same thing, but to Chantelle, her collection tells the epic journey of her ancestors before existing on the Philippine isles.
It is known that what we consider and call the Philippines today, was curated by hundreds of years of oppression, becoming a colony of one rich country of the west to another. Our inability to fight back and instead, allow the colonial mentality to overpower the Filipino nation, lead younger generations to forget, never know and to even dismiss their own complex ancestral heritage, tradition and culture of being a Filipino.
But unlike some, Chantelle, wanting to feed her curiosity of her Philippine ancestry, used a DNA test to learn more about her heritage. Chantelle admitted it "was something she wanted to do for a while, being ethnically ambiguous was an insecurity growing up", as like many Filipinos, the complexities of the Philippine history are reflected in the diverse appearance of its people. And to some, and in Chantelle's case also, not having certain physical attributes meant that she couldn't quite feel like she belonged in the Filipino community.
"DNA opened up a lot more about it, that Philippines in general are not one thing"
- Chantelle Anonuevo
But since then, says she's "learnt to love myself and that I am racially ambiguous in a way", and nothing brings a person's true joy than learning to love and embrace who they are, no matter what race, gender and age one is.
The 'Odyssey' Collection
Chantelle's collection is made up of 4 outfits based on the 4 notable origins of her female ancestors. If you would like to see Chantelle's ancestral breakdown, click here.
The Islands /
An off the shoulder blouse that is a modern day twist on the Maria Clara (Filipiniana) gown, with the bell sleeves and a bardot neckline. The blouse was paired with a skirt that is reminiscent of the seafaring livelihood of the early Filipinos. The combination of these 2 pieces depict a part of the very intricate history and culture of the Philippines that Chantelle identifies with. Her Filipino & Austronesian heritage takes up 93.4% of her DNA since the 1940s to present.
Interestingly enough, we learnt that the hem and embroidery on pineapple and banana fabrics are done during the fabric's production, they are embroided on to be a specific part of the garment, so that the seamstresses would already know what and where the neckline, sleeves and hem would be.
Sea to Land/
The long-sleeved wrap top is versatile, it can be wrapped however the wearer prefers. As Eastern asian garments tended be much longer, reaching ankle-length despite the hot climate, using abaca fabric, a layered skirt-looking wide legged trouser is paired with the wrapped top. These pieces embodies the nomadic cultures of her ancestors becoming more agriculture - focused in East Asia (Indonesia,Thai and Khmer) and needing to be free to move as part of their daily routine. Telling this part of Chantelle's ancestral journey since the 1760s to the 1950s.
The Fertile Crescent/
This outfit begins to truly demonstrate the geographical voyage of Chantelle's ancestors from Africa into Western Asia. The trousers in this outfit is made from one-piece fabric, and technically sewn to create its trouser form. The fabric that the golden pattern is printed on, can be worn as a head wrap or scarf when unzipped. But whilst on the trousers, create the voluminous shapes and lengthy ankle-reaching, reserved style of traditional Western Asian garments. The vest top looks simple but contains weaving that are part of the cultural arts in both Chantelle's African ancestors migrating into Western Asia from the 1730s - 1850s.
The pattern that is printed was created in collaboration between Chantelle and print designer Meredith Wood. The gold colour of this pattern is due to the prominent use of the colour gold during this era. The print was hand drawn and created from Chantelle's references of print and ornamental design of her ancestral cultures, creating this specific print that represents her and this entire project.
Out of Africa to Asia/
With elements from the Fertile Crescent and less technicalities, is a simpler outfit that is befitting the migration of Chantelle's earliest traceable ancestors. The wave-like pattern is used again, but this time printed on a long rectangular piece with 2 large holes so that the wearer can fit inside and style as a dress with any preferable neckline. For this outfit, the dress has been tucked into wide legged trousers with similar but plain detachable fabrics as the ones seen in the Fertile Crescent. With 2 detachable pieces (using eyelets) instead of a zip, to be worn as either a scarf or head wrap. As the title states ' Out of Africa to Asia', the references for this final outfit, were from the nomads of Sub-Saharan Africa during the 1730s.
The pattern and the colours of this collection, despite the traditional colours and print from her ancestral traditional clothing being very bold and intricate, to demonstrate that the migration of her ancestors has allowed her to be who she is now, have become simplified in shape and muted in colour, the hardware details show this is a collection for now.
A Contemporary Journey
"When I found the simplicity of these cultures, the complications of the garments is the complications of what I was going through self-discovery. I didn't want to exactly take this and that culture and say it's mine, I wanted it to be what I saw it as and what I think is me"
- Chantelle Anonuevo
As Chantelle created her graduate collection to be about her and what her ancestry means to her in the generation that she is in now. Has created a collection that is relatable and versatile to the people of the 21st century. Despite the historical and multi cultural references it was designed as a reflection of the migration of her ancestors, the garments can be interchanged and styled with any modern piece of clothing. The 'Odyssey' collection, tells Chantelle's ancestral past, past and perhaps even a fragment of her descendants future.
Thank you again to Chantelle for sharing with us her story. We can't wait to see what you have planned next! And last but not least, CONGRATULATIONS Chantelle on your graduation!!!!
You can check out Chantelle's portfolio here and make sure to follow her @nuevo.designs.
For more updates on our latest projects, follow us @MalyariTribe.
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